May 21, 2010

He's on Fire! Smoking and Basketball in China

For the most part, you can bet that someone will grab one of three things when one game ends in America: a phone, a drink or a ball. Here, people light up, sucking down cigarettes instead of gulping down water.

I receive a text today at about noon from my buddy Brince. Brince and I met through a mutual friend, and not once have we done anything besides playing basketball. Sure, we’ve been in taxis together on the way to the courts, and we’ve gotten something to eat after we played, but basketball has been the catalyst for each and every interaction that we’ve ever had. That’s not to say that all of our conversations are mundane rants about the NBA. Come to think of it, we’ve actually talked about some pretty heady stuff considering that basketball is the crux of our friendship. But the fact remains, basketball is the crux of our friendship.

Brince is 27 years-old. He came to Jinan on a six-month teaching contract. That was about four years ago now. When his contract expired and it came time to ask himself what he wanted to do next, he simply couldn’t spurn the lifestyle that he was living. It was an easy decision to rationalize. He works at a university – not a private school like myself – and logs about 12 hours a week, and during the summers he works at a basketball camp that his buddy started. So he has his summers off (save playing some basketball) and he makes a nice salary by working 12 hours a week. More than a few people would have trouble opting out of that for a 9-5.

His text asks if I want to play basketball. It’s one of those days were it’d be hard not to play basketball. The weather is ideal, there’s little breeze, and hell, even the pollution is complying: it’s the first day in a long while where you’d actually have to use your hand as a visor if you were to look skyward. There is generally a smoggy tint between Jinan and the sun that knocks its intensity down about five shades. But not today. Today it’s blue skies. Plus, with the NBA playoffs in full tilt, I simply have basketball on my mind. There is other stuff that I could be doing, like figuring out my life in light of the Northwestern debacle; reconciling the fact that I want to get into journalism even though there are no journalism jobs; deliberating my next move when it comes to re-signing with my current employer or figure out something else to do with my life. Practical considerations abound, stuff that I really need to figure out, but I still can’t help but think it would be a sin not to play.

I eagerly text Brince back that I do indeed want to play, and that I could probably coax my buddy Jonathan into playing as well. Brince calls about an hour later to make sure that we still want to play (we do), and we arrange a place to meet. I suggest Shandong Normal University, where I’ve played with Brince before. “Nah, man,” he says. “I want some competition!” Apparently there is better competition at a different university, and that’s where we’ll play. I couldn’t care less what the venue is.

We get to the university and the competition seems about the same. There is one guy who is exceptionally athletic but can’t hit a shot to save his life. Brince knows him from previous encounters, and says to Jonathan and I, “He’s a tennis player. That’s his love.” I can easily see him darting from side to side on a tennis court, sending balls back whence they came with a ferocity and grace that only a freak athlete like this guy would have. Luckily for us, he’s not that good at basketball.

Brince, Jonathan and I add a Chinese player to our team and begin to play. We lose our first game, sit for about 10 minutes, and then reel off a string of four straight wins. The party doesn’t last forever – the tennis player eventually dooms us – and we retreat to a nearby kiosk to buy some water. Upon our return, I see something that I have become almost immune to: The guys waiting to play in the next game – who have just lost but, because there are four teams cycling through, will have to wait for a few minutes – are smoking cigarettes. They’re getting ready to take the court by sucking down cancer sticks. Nuts.

Between games in the States, people check their phones for missed calls or texts. They scurry off to the water fountain to steal a drink. They shoot around or stretch or sit down and chat. These rituals pervade courts the country over. There are surely variations on these rituals. Maybe people in North Dakota run inside to down some hot chocolate instead of ice water. In L.A., maybe people check for emails on the BlackBerries instead of texts on their phones. But for the most part, you can bet that someone will grab one of three things when one game ends and the next one has yet to begin: a phone, a drink or a ball.

Here, people light up, sucking down cigarettes instead of gulping down water. It’s crazy by American standards, but if you remember this is China, then 18- to 30-year-old men smoking cigarettes isn’t a stunner.

China, after all, has an estimated* 300-350 million smokers. There are more smokers here than there are people in the United States. Moreover, it’s somewhat uncommon to see women smoke. Some do, sure, but there is still a seemingly hardened taboo about women smoking, especially in public. You just don’t see it. Thus, the vast majority of those 300-350 million smokers are men.

* Quick note about that link, from the Telegraph in London. I used it because it had the 350 million smokers stat, but the article itself is about a province in China where citizens were forced to smoke local cigarettes in an effort to bolster the province’s tobacco market. “Three ‘non-compliant’ cigarette butts were discovered by the ‘cigarette marketing consolidate team’ which informed the teacher he had violated the related civil servants ‘cigarette usage rule’ After some negotiation the school was spared a fine, but subjected to ‘public criticism” for ‘undisciplined practices’.” That the government was forcing its citizens to smoke a certain variety of cigarette suggest that there isn’t a great deal of anti-tobacco rhetoric coming from Beijing.

As the numbers suggest, smoking culture is just different in China than in the U.S. For the past few years, from about 2006 to 2009, there was a seismic shift in smoking laws and regulations in the States. During my tenure in college – 2004 to 2008 – the numbers of places you could smoke shrunk and shrunk. During those years I was going to school in Colorado and spending my summer and winter breaks in Kansas City, and I know everything changed in Colorado, Kansas and Missouri during my college years. As a non-smoker myself, I watched the evolution of smoking laws with glee. First restaurants banned smoking. Then bars in Kansas. Then bars in Colorado. Then bars in Missouri, which my smoking friends had viewed as a refuge from the oppressive non-smoking types lording over the other side of the Kansas-Missouri state line. In a way, it still seems bizarre that you can’t smoke in bars. Philosophically, I’m opposed to that: since when are bars designated as healthy venues? Practically, though, I’m all for it. I’d just as soon not be surrounded by smoke.

Well, it’s different here. You can smoke pretty much anywhere. You can smoke in restaurants; parents and teachers alike light up every day in the stairwells at my school; you can buy cigarettes at newsstands, restaurants, anywhere. It’s a little different in Beijing, where the 2008 Summer Olympics prompted the city to take some anti-smoking strides that resulted in smoking being outlawed in some restaurants and common areas like train stations. Still, though, it’s nothing like the States. Smoking is allowed and accepted almost anywhere – including basketball courts.

People smoke here like it’s not bad for you, which, according to my parents, is how people used to smoke in the States in the ’50s and ’60s. But just because people are unabashed about smoking doesn’t make it healthy. Oxford University and Cornell University conducted a corroborative study, discussed here by the BBC, looking at smoking and smoking deaths in China. The hypothesis of the study: smoking may eventually kill one-third of all young Chinese males if the trends continue unabated. According to the study, China has the largest number of smoking-related fatalities in the world. That may seem like a no-brainer considering the population numbers, but the study says that China’s smoking issues transcend the population numbers: “Surveys showed two-thirds of Chinese people think smoking does little or no harm, 60% think it does not cause lung cancer and 96% do not know that it causes heart disease,” the BBC reported said, adding, “Because of a sharp increase in cigarette sales in the last 30 years, around 2,000 people a day are currently dying of smoking in China. By 2050, the researchers expect this number could rise to 8,000 a day – some three million people a year.”

And just as men dominate the basketball demographic, so, too, do they dominate the smoking demographic. According to themedguru.com, “Out of every 100 men, 67 smoke, a higher percentage than anywhere else in the world apart from Yemen and Djibouti.”

There are also an estimated 300 million basketball players in China, and I can tell you first-hand, there is overlap between the smokers and ballers. At first I was shocked by the marriage of smoking and basketball. Basketball courts, after all, are a refuge of running around and sweating and cardiovascular exercise. It is, basically, antithetical to smoking. Just like a smoking ban at a bar – which is a refuge for alcohol and chance encounters with the opposite sex – is a haven for habits that don’t fly in the outside world.

Brince, Jonathan and I end up playing for a few hours. We outlast at least four different Chinese dudes who were acting as our fourth man – maybe because we weren’t smoking – and by the time we call it a day we’re satiated. My life is still in disorder on several practical fronts, but there was simply no way that I was getting through the day without playing basketball. On the bright side, at least I don’t smoke cigarettes.

May 17, 2010

A Love Affair with Love Affairs: Kobe Bryant in China

And that’s why Kobe Bryant might be so popular here, because (a) He plays basketball really well, and (b) He has, like so many Chinese people, cheated on his spouse.

Commercial breaks are one of the (only) redeeming qualities about NBA broadcasts in China. When broadcasts back home cut to close-ups of the McDonald’s breakfast menu, or of a female bartender mocking a guy for not ordering a Miller Lite, broadcasts in China usually cut to highlight reels. I’ll take highlights any day over some floozy claiming that Miller Lite is an enlightened beer choice.

One of the would-be commercial breaks that was cooked up for the playoffs, and which plays sporadically during every Los Angeles Lakers game, is a lengthy homage to Kobe Bryant – two-plus minutes of nothing but Kobe. As if that weren’t ridiculous enough, Michael Jackson’s “Heal the World” plays in the background. That’s right: Kobe Bryant is going to heal the world – or maybe he already has. It’s hard to tell.

The first time Jackson hits the chorus…Heal the world, make it a better place…there’s Kobe hitting game-winning shots against Miami, then Milwaukee, then Sacramento.

For you and for me and the entire human race

There’s Kobe raining on Denver in last season’s Western Conference semifinals, and Magic Johnson being so roused by Bryant’s brilliance that he gives him a standing ovation.

…There are people dying. If you care enough for the living, make a better place for you and for me…

The clip is utterly ridiculous if you have even the vaguest notion of what the lyrics to this song mean. The song is about, you know, saving the world, and Bryant is a basketball player – and not a particularly likeable or philanthropic basketball player at that.

Whatever the clip is supposed to insinuate about Bryant, it speaks to his popularity in China. And Brant’s popularity in China is undeniable. MSNBC.com writer Mike Celizic, who covered the 2008 Beijing Olympics, began an article about China’s obsession with Kobe thus: “It would be an insult to say that Chinese basketball fans treat Kobe Bryant like a god. And Kobe would be the insulted one.” And Denver Post writer Mark Kiszla, also covering the 2008 Games, wrote that “Kobe Bryant is bigger in China than the Great Wall.”

His Lakers jersey has for years been the most popular in the nation. And yesterday, during a mid-class break, one of my friends’ students literally wrote “Kobe Bryant” in huge letters on the board. In smaller letters, between Kobe and Bryant, he wrote, Heal the world. “You got to see this,” my friend, a Bostonian, told me. I walked into the glass, took one glance at the board and turned to the 17-year-old who penned it. “Heal the world?!” I said, exasperated. He nodded and pulled out his phone, which had as its background a picture of Kobe Bryant. It’s no surprise that the kid was wearing a purple Bryant jersey.

Why, though? Why is Bryant so outlandishly popular? Sure, he’s one of the best players out there, and he’s won championships, and girls think he’s a good-looking guy. These are surely all factors in Bryant’s popularity.

But I am intrigued with a different hypothesis, one posed by my Bostonian co-worker: Bryant’s history of having extramarital affairs may actually enhance his popularity in China. Because if you do a little research on infidelity in China, you realize that while Americans may have cringed at Bryant cheating on his wife, more than a few Chinese guys probably just nodded. And then went out to buy a Bryant jersey.

If you don’t remember, Kobe was accused of sexual assault in 2003 by a 19-year-old Colorado woman. The charges were ultimately dropped, but they nonetheless prompted a teary-eyed press conference at which Bryant admitted that he cheated on his wife. In 2004, a police report was leaked that contained further confessions from Bryant: he had slept with more women than just his 19-year-old accuser.

The Chinese can relate to extramarital affairs. A China Daily article published in October of 2008 – two months after Bryant became the de facto king of China during the Olympics – discussed the popularity of the Chinese movie “Painted Skin,” which has a plot revolving around a man, Wang Sheng, who must decide whether to stick with his loyal wife or leave for his lover. A Beijing newspaper posted an online survey asking their readers, “If you were Wang Sheng, who would be your choice?” According to the article, there were about 1,100 people who responded, and less than half said that they would choose the wife (the good-husband option). More than 30 percent said that they would like for have both women (the Kobe Bryant option). Forty-five percent of those surveyed said that affairs were “quite common” among couples they knew.

“The survey, by some degree, revealed people’s real attitudes toward extramarital affairs,” Zhou Xiaopeng, a consultant with the China Marriage Society, is quoted saying.

This article from Reuters asserts, “‘Second wives’ are common among government officials and businessmen in China.” And this article from the Los Angeles Times, about an official named Li who was busted for having four mistresses, says:

Li’s transgressions were minor compared with those of other public officials. A top prosecutor in Henan province, for example, was recently stripped of his post and Communist Party membership after investigators alleged that he embezzled $2 million to support his lavish lifestyle -- and seven mistresses….

So common is the practice [of having mistresses] that it has spawned an industry of private detectives snooping on cheating husbands and their paramours.

Tiger Woods poses another interesting facet of the affairs-in-China topic. This article from a Sydney-based newspaper discusses how, while companies are increasingly skeptical of Woods’ image and his ability to market their products, Tag Heuer, a luxury watch maker, has taken a nuanced, country-by-country approach to handling Woods. Guess which country hasn’t seen a decrease in Woods exposure?

“Very quickly we have taken sides,” [CEO Jean-Christophe] Babin said. “We stay with him but, as he wants more privacy and as he won't play for a while, in the countries where the issue is quite sensitive we won't use him much.”

Consequently, in the US, Woods's image has been removed from the company's advertising. However, it remains on the Tag Heuer website and, in China, use of it has been increased.

Peter Hessler succinctly discusses affairs in China in his book Oracle Bones. In this scene, he rehashes tales from one of his former students, Emily, who herself was courted by a married man.

During dinner, Emily regales me with stories about the factory owners. One of her boss’s colleagues was a Chinese-American who, after recently arriving from San Francisco on business, had gone to Emily’s office, faxed his wife a love letter, and then immediately gone out and hired a prostitute. Emily’s own boss was always leering at the young women in his factory, and most of his friends were the same. In a nearby plant, another Taiwanese owner had become so distracted by his two Sichuanese mistresses that his company had gone bankrupt.

This stuff happens a lot here. And while it isn’t necessarily accepted, it’s still common, and a basketball player who himself has (or at least had) a penchant for mistresses is something that Chinese men can relate to.

Like so many unattractive aspects of Chinese cultural – be it poverty or joblessness or the number of deaths in an earthquake – quality statistics on extramarital affairs are hard to come by. Sure, there are online surveys; Tag Heuer has upped its use of Tiger Woods in China when other companies have washed his lecherous face from their ads; Hessler’s student obviously experience China’s love affair with love affairs first hand. But there is at least anecdotal evidence to suggest that affairs in China are, if not more prevalent than in the States, then at least viewed differently, almost like it is an inherent part of society as opposed to a nary-discussed secret that people do their best to ignore.

And that’s why Kobe Bryant might be so popular here, because (a) He plays basketball really well, and (b) He has, like so many Chinese people, cheated on his spouse.

I’ll admit that this could very well be a specious claim; maybe Bryant is popular for more predictable reasons. Like that his string of three straight NBA titles culminated the same year that Yao Ming entered the league. Or that he plays in one of the biggest and most recognizable cities in America. Personally, though, I think that 19-year-old in Colorado helped solidify Kobe’s god-like status in China.

In his article on Bryant’s popularity in China, the Kiszla wrote, “Sure, the man can hoop. But he’s not exactly the finest example of American virtue. So why does China go absolutely gaga for Kobe?” Maybe Kiszla missed the point. Maybe Kobe’s not popular despite his marital transgressions, but because of them.